This is another in a series of posts looking at the less well known parts of Britain that are well worth visiting. Swanage is a coastal town in Dorset, West of England, about 12 miles west of Bournemouth (via the Sandbanks Ferry). It is in a very picturesque area known as the Isle of Purbeck, which is not actually an island but a peninsula. If feels like an island though; it seems fairly remote from the rest of Dorset, especially if you arrive via the ferry.
Swanage is about a three hour drive from London (via M3/M27/A31/A351 roads), or can be reached by train from London Waterloo to Wareham and then a bus (#40) to the town. The total journey time is about 3.5 hours.
I’m personally very fond of Swanage. When I was a child, we used to have our annual vacations here; my aunt and uncle owned a bed and breakfast in the town. I go back whenever I can and it is probably the only place I know from my childhood that hasn’t changed much over the years. The town of Swanage has a very old feel with narrow streets and with many of the buildings built in the local Purbeck stone. The town has a long history, first mentioned in the Anglo-Saxon Chronicle in 877AD, but is probably much older as the Romans quarried the local stone.
Swanage, Dorset
The Town
The town sits by a natural harbour, which was very useful for the transportation of the stone, as well as being a base for fishing vessels. It became a popular holiday resort in the early 19th century, when the Manor House Hotel was built. The hotel was renamed the Royal Victoria Hotel after the young Princess Victoria (the future Queen Victoria) stayed there in 1833. Incidentally, this building still stands, is grade II listed (protected) and has been converted into apartments.
Old Harry, Swanage
Swanage is not a large town, but there are plenty of shops, cafes, pubs and restaurants to enjoy. There is an interesting free museum and the historic Victorian pier is worth a visit for the views.
Swanage Pier
Durlston Country Park
The Great Globe, Durlstan Country Park, Swanage
A short walk from the town (about a mile) is the Durlstan Country Park and National Nature Reserve with stunning views, walking trails, a Victorian castle and the historic Great Globe.
Swanage Railway
Corfe Castle Station, Swanage Railway (By Mick Knapton at the English language Wikipedia, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=16705457)
One of the highlights of a visit to Swanage is the heritage railway. The branch line linking Wareham on the main London to Weymouth line to Swanage closed in 1972, replaced by a bus service. There was then a 30 year struggle by local residents and volunteers to restore the line which they succeeded in doing. It is now a very attractive heritage line running steam trains (and some old diesels) to Corfe Castle and Norden (6.5 miles). So, travel back to the 1950s and take a delightful trip to Corfe Castle and back.
Brownsea Island
Brownsea Island, Dorset
Take a boat from nearby Poole or Sandbanks and spend a day on Brownsea Island. The island is owned by the National Trust and is home to one of the few remaining colonies of British Red Squirrel, which have largely been wiped out elsewhere in the Country by the North American Grey Squirrel. There is plenty of other wildlife to see on the trails as well as spectacular views across to the Purbeck Hills.
Corfe Castle
Corfe Castle, Dorset
Corfe Castle is a quaint village six miles from Swanage and can be accessed by road on the A351 or on the Swanage Railway. The village is named after the castle which dominates the area. Now in ruins, it is owned by the National Trust. Discover 1000 years of history and experience magnificent views of Purbeck.
There are many other places to visit in the area. For more information, see the local Dorset website here.
Enjoy your trip!
Local Family History
If you have local ancestors and are going to do some research on your trip, the Dorset Archives are located in Dorchester (30 miles from Swanage). The best website for Dorset Parish Registers is The Genealogist so is worth checking out. The Swanage Museum also has a Family History section and holds some archives. It is advisable to contact them before visiting to make the most of your trip.
Here are some Dorset books you may be interested in:
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